The History of Puerto Escondido: From Coffee Port to Surf Paradise

Mar 10, 2020
4 min read

Updated: 12 hours ago

From a small natural harbor used to export Oaxaca’s coffee to one of the world’s most legendary surf destinations, discover the history of Puerto Escondido.

A classic day at Zicatela, the legendary Mexican Pipeline in Puerto Escondido.

Today, Puerto Escondido is famous for surfing, beaches, sunsets and its relaxed coastal lifestyle. But the history of Puerto Escondido began long before tourism and the giant waves of Zicatela.

About three or four hours from the coast lie coffee-producing towns such as Pluma Hidalgo and San Juan Lachao, communities surrounded by lush mountains and historic coffee fincas that date back to the early twentieth century — and in some cases even earlier.

As Oaxaca coffee became internationally recognized for its aroma and quality, producers faced an important challenge: how could they transport the coffee beans from the mountains to a port where they could be exported?

That is how traders and farmers discovered a small protected bay hidden between the enormous Pacific waves. That place was Bahia Principal, one of the beaches that today forms part of Puerto Escondido.

At that time, there was no official port. Large ships could not approach the coast because of the heavy surf, so local people used pangas — small wooden boats — to carry sacks of coffee offshore and transfer them to larger cargo ships waiting in deeper waters.

How Coffee Trade Built Puerto Escondido

Little by little, this coffee trade gave life to the first settlements in Puerto Escondido. Families, fishermen, traders and workers started arriving, attracted not only by economic opportunities, but also by the beauty of the coastline and the warmth of the local communities

An early view of Puerto Escondido’s Bahía Principal, where coffee was once loaded to be exported

Rinconada Boulevard was once an airstrip

Today, Rinconada is known for its cafés, surf schools, restaurants and relaxed atmosphere. Located next to Carrizalillo Beach, it is considered one of the most beautiful and peaceful areas in Puerto Escondido, especially popular among travelers learning how to surf thanks to its calm turquoise waters and beginner-friendly waves. Today, Oasis Surf is located in the heart of Rinconada, surrounded by cafés, local restaurants and just a short walk from some of Puerto Escondido’s most iconic beaches.

However, during the 1950s, the boulevard that now crosses the neighborhood was simply a dirt runway used by small airplanes.

These planes transported coffee from the Sierra Sur region to Oaxaca City and other parts of the country. This connection helped Puerto Escondido grow and slowly transformed the once-isolated coastal settlement into a more connected town.

It is hard to imagine that where people now walk toward Carrizalillo Beach, Café Nopal or local surf schools, small planes once took off carrying coffee from Puerto Escondido to Oaxaca City.

How surfing and Zicatela changed Puerto Escondido forever

Zicatela in the 1970s, when Puerto Escondido began earning its reputation as the Mexican Pipeline

During the 1970s, another important chapter in the history of Puerto Escondido began: surfing.

The first California surfers started traveling south in search of uncrowded waves, warm water and unexplored surf breaks. Gradually, stories began circulating about a powerful beach break in Oaxaca producing massive and perfectly shaped barrels.

That wave was Playa Zicatela.

International surfers initially explored areas such as Bahía de Todos Santos and Bahía San Miguel before eventually discovering the beaches of Puerto Escondido. What they found here would forever change the history of surfing in Mexico.

Why Zicatela Became the Mexican Pipeline

The waves of Zicatela — now famously known as the “Mexican Pipeline” — became legendary for their fast, hollow and extremely powerful barrels. Unlike many developed surf destinations around the world, Puerto Escondido at the time remained a small fishing town with dirt roads, untouched beaches and a deeply authentic atmosphere.

This combination of raw nature, incredible surf and local culture quickly turned Puerto Escondido into a mythical destination within the international surfing community.

Puerto Escondido Became a Global Surf Destination.

The documentary Place of Thorns captures that era perfectly. It portrays a still-remote Puerto Escondido where surfers arrived after long journeys through Mexico searching for some of the best waves on Earth. The film reflects the intensity, isolation and beauty that defined Puerto during those years.

Over time, Puerto Escondido began producing internationally recognized surfers and hosting world-class big wave surfing competitions that continue attracting athletes and travelers from across the globe.

Roger Ramirez, legendary tube rider from Puerto Escondido and founder of Oasis Surf, surfing the powerful waves of Zicatela

Puerto Escondido today: coffee, culture and ocean life

Although Puerto Escondido has grown enormously since its coffee-exporting beginnings, the town still preserves much of its original spirit.

It is still possible to watch local fishermen returning at sunrise, drink coffee from Pluma Hidalgo in small cafés and experience the slower rhythm of life that continues to define Oaxaca’s coast.

The beaches remain at the center of everyday life. Some visitors come searching for surf in Zicatela, while others prefer swimming in Carrizalillo, watching sunsets in Bacocho or exploring the local food scene.

Today, Puerto Escondido is a unique mix of surf culture, Oaxacan traditions, coffee history and Pacific Ocean beauty.

And maybe that is the real reason why so many travelers arrive planning to stay only a few weeks… and end up staying much longer.

Zicatela’s main street today, where surf culture, local life and the energy of Puerto Escondido come together.

Puerto Escondido as a World Surfing Reserve

In 2026, Puerto Escondido reached another historic milestone when it was officially recognized as the world’s 14th World Surfing Reserve. This international recognition, led by the organization Save The Waves, seeks to preserve and protect the legendary waves of Playa Zicatela, along with more than 10 kilometers of coastline and surf breaks that have shaped Puerto Escondido into one of the most recognized surf cities in the world. The designation highlights not only the world-class quality of its waves, but also the importance of protecting the local communities, ecosystems and surf culture that make Puerto Escondido unique.